EVA1 Module 4: Handheld Rig

Keith demonstrates mounting the EVA to the handheld rig.


This is the module for building the handheld rig.

So, starting with the basic layout of the camera that we’ve kind of gone through, we’re gonna go and attach the hand grip and the shoulder brace and also the LCDs.

Hand grip and shoulder brace

So, you got your hand grip and you got your shoulder brace. The shoulder brace has to fit in a certain way in order to fit it into this case, so once you get it out you’re going to want to adjust it to your body shape. But the first thing is to get the shoulder brace into the camera itself. It’s really simple. There’s an existing rig plate that’s already built into the camera and it just stays on the camera and we will slide these rods into this.

I noticed working with this that the left rod on this particular rig is really tight. Really really tight, actually; very, very difficult to get in. So, you want to make sure that this is loose, this little nut right there. And we’ll slide it in. There you go. And unfortunately whoever designed this did not design it for fat fingers because I can’t tighten it; my fingers are too big to get in there. Which is to me a major design flaw, because how do I get it? Maybe – there – okay, I just was able to get it out and now I can tighten it.

We’ll discuss this area here, but there’s really no reason that I can think of to get these out a little further except for one instance which we may get to. But for now, I’m just going to rig it up like that. Make sure it’s tight there. Make sure that this knob is also tightened. And now we’re in securely and I will put on the handheld grip.

There we go. And I’m gonna slide this forward just a little bit, so I can put the hand grip on – I didn’t have room for the hand grip – so we’re gonna go ahead and put the hand grip on here. Again, you want to make sure that this screw is loose. Now, I want to tighten that screw down. I’m going the wrong way, I guess. Oh boy, it’s getting hot in here! Okay, now we tighten that down, nice and tight. And I’m gonna go ahead and just test it out.

Okay, it’s pretty compact. I’m not gonna stand up, cuz you’ll cut my head off, keeping the elbows in really tight, but’s totally up to you. If you want to adjust these, this is really cool, these big red knobs here, you just push it in and you can adjust them, which is very handy. And so depending on how you want to do it you have that adjustment. There’s a couple of other adjustments here. Obviously, you can loosen this and move it back. And you can loosen this and make a wider shoulder thing; you might want to put a towel under your shoulder. But this is pretty soft. It’s actually got good padding.

Rigging the LCD

Now, we got to get to how we rig up the LCD. You can see that I’ve left it built from the previous modules and I kind of adjusted this a little bit. This actually works pretty well but I have to kind of look up. Ideally, I would want it right here. In order to do that I’ve got a couple of choices here. I can move this piece over – and actually when I originally got this camera opened it was over here on this side – but there’s this little wooden camera piece here, a little attachment. Let’s loosen this. Alright. Be careful with the cables.

Right here we’ve got this little implement here that allows you to attach things to the camera. I’m gonna go ahead and unscrew it. And the reason why is because I can’t get that monitor any further around than what I showed you just a second ago. So, I’m gonna bring it over here, attach it to this side. I know you can’t see me but it’s basically just a screw hole with a screw. Very straightforward. Get it nice and tight. And then what I’m gonna do is I’m going to take this and attach it to this side. You may actually want to do this without all this the cables attached, because it gives you more freedom of movement. But I’m gonna go ahead and do that, get that tightened down And I can rotate these around and you know probably right there for me works pretty good.

In the normal kind of mode I would probably want to get rid of some of this cabling – or at least tidy it up, not get rid of it, but tidy it up, so that I don’t get snagged by any cabling. So, I’m gonna gently put this in here. And then let that get put back in there. There we go.

And this cable, which is the power cable – you remember – the power cable I’m also gonna sneak through here, just to get it out of the way so that I’m being careful with it. You don’t want to pull it too tight. Keep it loose, but the idea is to keep it out of your grabbing range so that you won’t accidentally grab it in. So I’m gonna go ahead and do that. As long as you’re not tightening it too hard, the cable’s gonna be fine. I’m gonna reattach it and I’m pretty happy with that. Close that back up.

So, that kind of streamlines it. I’ve got the monitor up. Go ahead and turn the camera on. And I actually have the lens cap on; let me take the lens cap off.

I may want to make little minor adjustments, but that works really well. I might lower it a little bit. I could under-sling this arm; flip the arm around and under-sling it so it comes down, sits more right here. But for this purpose, you know, it works.

What I like about these is they’re lighter. These are pretty heavy and with the articulating arm, this, the power supply, and all that stuff, it adds a lot of weight. If I’m doing a lot of handheld, I might consider rigging this one.

You’ve got this one with the hole that looks like it would fit the pipe for the 15-inch. And then you have this one which is a screw that attaches to these areas here on the camera. Let me show you. This one is pretty straightforward to put on. In order to put this one on you got to take this off, so I’m gonna go ahead and do that.

And actually before I do that, I’m just gonna undo all this cabling that I just rigged up nicely.

Again, being very careful with these cables – yes I am looping them and stuff, but I’m not pulling them taut, I’m treating them gingerly. Take this whole thing off. This thing has got some weight to it compared to the Panasonic’s. So, you take that off. Okay, you kind of stripped it down, but I still have this little holder. I’ve got to switch it over to this side if I want to put the monitor.

Okay, now you can see that it’s made this area available. You can see the two different ones: you’ve got this one which has got the screw and then you’ve got this one which is really more for fitting a 15 millimeter rod in there. But let’s go ahead and attach this.

I can tighten that down real good. Okay. Open it up. Have my little power cable here. Gonna do the same thing I did with the other power cable and kind of snake it through. If you remember, it goes in right there. And so you could, if you wanted to, you could snake this a little bit, get it out of the way. Up to you how you like to work. But there you go. There you have the kind of slightly lighter version.

I’m just gonna really lower it down like that. Okay, and then I’m going to use this piece – I know it’s hard for you all to see – but there’s a screw here on this one. It’s gonna rotate up. Now I’ve got a little better. Oh yeah, I’m liking that a lot.

That is easy if you have this version. For the other version, I’m gonna send this guy all the way through, way out there. I’m gonna make sure we tighten it down. I’m gonna make sure that this is tight. You want to make sure that your rod here is not going all the way out and make sure it still has enough to bite on.

So, the idea here is to maybe use this rig. So, this one is a little different. It’s got the hole instead of the screw knob. So, let’s see if we can get that to work…

Yeah, it’s not really tightening down.

That’s a bit of a problem.

Okay… that is a bit of a problem.

Well, at least I have a screen!

Let me see if I actually see myself, which I probably do. Again, like I said, I did not try this before I started this one. It’s a little more complicated than I thought it would be. Yeah, so this may even be too short to do this. Okay, so I come up through here. No. No. I can’t get that in there.

Okay, that doesn’t work.

So, if you have this version of the LCD without a whole other assembly up here, which we don’t have, you won’t be able to use this monitor. You’ll have to go with the LCD here. This one is nicer. It is a little heavier, and it’s not that much heavier, but it is nice, because you have a little bit more flexibility with the adjustments. But this is not gonna work. Sorry I’m taking you down that rabbit hole, but tried it on-camera, does not work, that one with the hole in it. This one however works like a charm.

And that is the rig. I would move this back a little bit if I wanted to. And pretty straightforward, pretty cool. And it allows you to do some nice handheld work.

EVA1 Module 3: Camera Build

Keith demonstrates the quick-release plate for the tripod, media cards, filters, the sun shield, and the two LCD monitors.


This is the camera build portion of the tutorial.

Quick-release plate on tripod head

I went ahead and took the head off so that you all could see it really easily. So, you wouldn’t normally do this, but for you all being able to see I decided to take the head off. You have the quick-release plate right here; it’s very familiar, it should be very familiar to you. You’ve got the larger threaded screw. You have the smaller kind of copper screw. What you want to do is you want to slide that in, pull back the lever so that it allows room to come in, and it should just slide in just like that. Then you lock it down that way. And that’s how the quick-release goes into the tripod. Now obviously this head would be on top. The ball-head would be in here. And tighten down with this. You do not need to take this apart; I’m just showing you for ease of use here. To take it off, you just go to the off position and it’ll just slide right out.

Quick-release plate to camera

It’s really important that you get the right holes lined up, otherwise it will not tighten down. So, it’s important that you put the copper – that little copper pin – in this big hole and the threaded pin goes into this hole next to it. Big hole and then the threaded hole. So, it just slides into there. Let’s see if I can do it. I’m just gonna put it and you can kind of see it goes into that big hole and then to the thread. And then we tighten it down.

Okay, so this is a good example. I’ve got it in the wrong hole and I put it into this hole here – that bigger screw – and it’s the wrong hole; it’s too big. So, it’s not tightening down, there’s a problem. So, what I’m gonna do is I’m gonna switch it around and I’m gonna put the big thread into this smaller hole; not this hole, but this hole. And then again I’m still going to put the little copper pin into the big hole. So, I’m gonna spin it around. So, right now you can see it kind of goes in. There’s the big hole and there’s the other thread spun around and it goes into there. And I’m gonna tighten that down. Good. I got a good tight grip on it. There you go! That’s the quick release plate.

Quick-release plate to tripod

Let’s go ahead and put the quick release plate onto the tripod. In order to do that, we need to put it back together, so I’m gonna quickly do that. This will be familiar to you as well. Again, we’re not gonna be doing this normally, it was just for the tutorial.

Okay, I’m just gonna go do a little pre-balance with the fluid, with the ball head. I’m gonna go ahead and attach the camera with the quick-release plate onto the tripod. The best way to do that is to come in from the opposite side, angled from the opposite side of where the latch is. Make sure it’s nice and seated. Give it a nice shake, make sure it’s on there good. Check the balance one more time. Everything looks pretty great.

The next thing we want to do is insert the battery. Make sure to check it. Okay it’s full, that’s nice. Remember your copper leads here. We’re gonna go ahead now and take the copper leads and they kind of go in – copper leads are down there – and just kind of push it in and then just gently push down. Again, not a lot of movement needed here. This little pin right here will pop out and now your battery is in place and ready to go.

Inserting the media card

These are obviously very tiny. This is 128 GB. This is the SDXC card. These things are not cheap and they are very easy to lose, so please keep very careful track of where these are.

You take the label and, label facing the left-hand side of camera, it just slides into Slot 1. There’s actually two slots in there and you can put two cards in there if you want to. It’s up to you. If you have two cards, then it’ll just automatically start going into recording on the other card. Just for for me, organizationally, I just like to use one card at a time. But the card goes in there very easy. To take it out, you just hit it, pop it and it pops out.


We’ve insert the battery and we’ve inserted the media, let’s talk about filters.

These are our filters. They are screw-on, so if you’re using a polarizer obviously make sure that they’re clean, doing proper cleaning protocols on them. And they’ll screw right onto the front. There’s a little threading here. Just gently screw them on. They’ll tighten down. They won’t fully tighten, actually, it’ll keep going, but it is very secure and that’s all you need to do for the filters – you have two of them.

Let’s take it off. We go the other way. There we go. And put that away.

Attaching the sun shield

There’s a little button at the very bottom here. I don’t know if you can see it very well on the camera, but there’s a little button. You push it and that allows you to unlock it. And once you unlock it, you can rotate it and it’ll pop off. And then what happens is you flip it around and same thing, at some point you’ll find – there it goes – it kind of seats itself and then you just click it in place. Now you have a sunshield on.

To take that off, what you need to do to put it back in the camera case, there’s this little button here. It’s the same button I used to rotate it around. I’m gonna click it and it’s gonna pop out like that. And then I’m just going to do the same process, kind of find where it seats. There it goes. And then keep twisting and you’ll hear it click. Pretty easy to use. And that will prevent from flares and things like that. Okay, so that is the lens filter and the lens shield or lens flare guard.

Rigging the LCD

Rigging the LCD up. The attachment that I want, let’s go here, tighten it down. This may be on the other side of the camera as well, but I’m just gonna slide it on, tighten it down. You should be familiar with this as well because it’s very similar to some other camera systems. Then I’m just going to tighten that. Alright, nice and tight. Gonna put on the LCD again. Tighten that on real good.

Let’s take the power cable. The power cable goes – I’m doing this upside down, hope I can do it – and just kind of slides down. Doesn’t really even click. I’m gonna double-check that to make sure I did it right. It doesn’t really make a sound; you just kind of push it in. Very simple. It doesn’t really matter which side it goes in. I’m always putting it over here to start, just because of a left-to-right kind of thing.

This is the other end of this power cable – this is that power cable that we talked about that you got to be careful with. So, this is difficult to get into this battery. This will not power unless you put plug it into this battery. Now what you can do is you can use a second battery if you wanted to for some reason. So, I’m gonna go ahead and stick this in — it only goes in one way — it’s oriented and it’s really a tight fit. Okay, so what I’m gonna have to do is just push it in. There it goes, and it seats all the way, kind of flush.

Getting signal from camera to LCD monitor

We’ve got your SDI-out, right there. So, on the top one, I’m going to install it that way. Again, you should be familiar with this, at least vaguely. And then over here I’m going to plug it into the SDI-in. So, this is your SDI-out to SDI-in, right here.

Alright, the switch for the power is over here. Little switch right there. And it is booting up. Now, in order to see the LCD, there’s a little button up here. There’s actually two buttons; we’re gonna go with this button on the right-hand side when you’re looking at it from behind. There we go. There’s an image on your monitor. See my hand? Yay! And that’s how you set up the LCD. Pretty straightforward.

The secondary LCD, in case you want to use this or in case you accidentally go into log. This one actually has a little cap thing that kind of pops off. It doesn’t fall off, which is good because you’d lose that in a heartbeat. And then this gets plugged in and as you can see I actually have two monitors now. I’ve got this one is feeding this one, so you can see that there’s an image on that. And then this one is feeding this one from a different port. So, you can actually have two different monitors if you want. Now, the issue here is that there’s length issue. We might be incorporating some BNC cables to get this one further away (working on that), but for now this is the package you get.

So, did two different monitors, two different ways of monitoring it. In order to get this piece out, you have to squeeze the ends, or either side, squeeze them and pull. It’s the only way it comes out, otherwise you’re going to damage it trying to get it out. So, be careful of that.

I think that’s all for the build. The next module we’re gonna do, we’re gonna rig it into the handheld load. Thanks.

EVA1 Module 2: Battery Build

Keith demonstrates how to operate the battery charger for the EVA1 camera.


Okay, let’s talk about building the different parts of the camera package.

This is the battery charger module, the AC power supply for the charger, and the power cable for the AC power supply, and the batteries.

Take the module, take your AC supply, plug it into there. Then you take your power cable, plug into your AC power supply. Plug it into the wall, or in this case a stinger, and that’s all there is to it.

Now to charge the batteries, take a couple of them out. There’s little copper threads down at the bottom of this charger and there’s a little copper matching threads here. So you want to just put the battery kind of in the middle, then just slide down. The sliding does not take very much at all. It’s surprisingly little effort to get these in. There, it just really is like maybe a millimeter. And if I’m powered up here you should see some green lights. This one is charging, because it’s not quite full, and that’s all there is to it.

EVA1 Module 1: Package Contents

In this video tutorial, Keith reviews the contents of the basic EVA1 package, which includes the camera, tripod system, battery charger, and sound case.


Okay, this module is about what you’re gonna get when you receive this package.

We have four parts here that we’re sending out, considered the camera and sound package:

  • You have the case (the camera case).
  • You have the tripod case.
  • You have the battery charger case.
  • And you have the sound case.

Battery charger

The battery charger case is the smaller of the cases. Looks like that.

Alright, let’s lay out its parts. I’ll put it up here. Three batteries. You have the charger module itself. You have the AC to DC transformer — basically the power supply for the charger module. And you have the power cable that goes to the wall and into your AC adapter.

This is your battery package. Let’s see that’s all there is. Alright, let’s put it back. Got three batteries: one, two, three. You’ve got the battery charger module itself; that’s there. You got the AC supply. And you have the power cable.

That’s box number one. Again, it’s the smallest of the three boxes.

Sound case

Moving up to the next biggest size, this is the sound box. Go ahead and open this up. This guy — I’m not gonna show you the case because it’s a little too big — but this is the sound kit.

You have a handy-dandy handbook designed by Chuck Allen. This is a really good handbook. It lays out all the settings that you need to have for the EVA camera when it comes to sound.

Inside the case, the hardware. You have a soft box. The soft box has the microphone, the lav mic — actually this soft box contains all the lav mic materials or the hardware. You have the mic itself. You have the XLR to mini-XLR cable. You have the receiver — and this receiver actually has the shoe on it that will attach it to the camera — so you got the receiver with the shoe. And you have the transmitter that transmits the audio signal. So this is all your lav mic stuff in the soft case.

Then we have your headphones. Headphones with headphones bag. Put that here.

Then we have this hard case — black hard case (you got a soft and a hard). This is a shotgun mic.

And then everything else are cables. Now, you have two 90-degree cables. The reason why they are called 90-degree XLR cables is because they have a 90-degree and a straight edge. So you got two of those.

You have, um… This is the the cable that, if you want to use with the headphones while you’re monitoring the boom mic, you can plug the headphones into here. So that’s that cable; I don’t know the exact name of that cable. You know me and sound.

And the rest are XLRs. I believe there is — and of course this is a good example of what not to do — so when you pack back up, please make it look more like this and less like this. This looks like a longer, 100-foot XLR. This looks like a 50-foot XLR. So, you got two additional XLRs.

And that’s your sound: shotgun mics, headphones, rest of the cables, and the 90-degree.

A-ha! I knew there was one more thing in here. (Let’s put the soft cotton box back, the lav case.) This is a little stereo mic adapter. I guess goes from a stereo mini to some other connection. Again, I don’t know much about sound, but what I do know is that if you have the smaller mini connector, you can attach it into here and it’ll go into there like that so you can monitor here. So, this is a little adapter. There’s also one I discovered in the camera case, but I’m gonna keep this one in here so you got two of those.

And that’s your sound case. Great, moving on…

Camera case

The biggest case of the bunch is our camera case. Take a look at this.

Alright, first up, you have the camera itself. This is the EVA1 by Panasonic. This is the body of the camera. I’ll put that out there, so that we can see it nicely; make sure it doesn’t fall off, that would be bad.

You have the rigging implements: Handheld rig grip. You have the shoulder brace. You have the LCD. This is an aftermarket, third-party LCD by SmallHD. You have that LCD; it also came with a sunscreen, so you got those two items. And Panasonic also makes their own LCD; it’s got a very different connection on it. This is a good thing to have because if you accidentally go into log, which I did do when I was working with the camera, there’s no way to get to the menus without this. So, this is a pretty critical piece of gear; you can’t get to it through the SmallHD, as far as I know.

And finally we have the — actually that’s not true as there’s two more boxes — this is a filter case. It’s got the polar in it (circular polar) and it has an ND8 — which I’m not real sure what that is, but it does seem like it knocks it down quite a bit, so you’ve got some ND filtration in addition to the ND filtration in the camera.

And then we’ve got this black box which has got all the little accoutrements for your LCD and it also has a card reader. Let’s just go through the contents: The first thing you have is a short BNC. This goes from your SDI-out on your camera to your SDI-in on your LCD, so you got the LCD. Front and back lens cap. (Tell you what, let me put these away real quick: Sun screen, LCD, Panasonic LCD, shoulder brace, grip, filters.) Let’s go through the contents of this black box you can see it better: short BNC; the front and back plates for the lens; a handy-dandy flat-head screwdriver to put the quick-release on to your camera; articulating arm; power supply for your SmallHD LCD monitor (ER has informed me that these are very delicate, these cables, so please be careful. I know that they’re difficult to get into the battery and I’ll show you that process in the next module, but here is the power supply for the LCD); you have your card reader and you have the card reader USB-C cable, and that will read your cards; and then, like I told you, there’s an additional one of these (adapters) inside the camera case, inside this black box.

Alright so let’s put all this stuff back.

There, and hopefully I’ll have enough time to make a picture of these and label them. If not, I would suggest when you open the box go ahead and take a picture with your phone so you know exactly how it goes back in the box, because I just don’t know if there’s going to be enough time to create that.

That is your camera case.